LONGINES

Longines Master Collection GMT

Last year was a quietly strong year for Longines. If all the brand did was re-release the Legend Diver it would have been a success for a lot of watch lovers. The Spirit Zulu Time in 39mm was another great release from 2023 (not counting the fact that Hodinkee did its own limited edition version). Well, Longines is starting 2024 off by picking up where it left off with GMTs, with two new limited edition GMT releases in yellow and rose gold.

The two new Longines Master Collecting GMTs are decidedly more dressy but feature the same movement, the Longines-exclusive Caliber L844.5 (made by ETA), which featured in everything from the Hydroconquest GMT to the Spirit Zulu Time in both 39mm and 41mm. That means hours, minutes, seconds, date at six o'clock, and an independent 24-hour hand.

The case here, however, is a sleeker, dressier gold (18k yellow or rose, depending on which one you're looking at) with a more serious frosted silver dial with Roman numerals and a 24-hour scale around the rehaut. Whether you go for yellow or rose gold, there are only (only) 500 pieces of each, with a price tag of $14,750.

Gold watches for a brand like Longines are a curious thing. I'm a big fan of a number of Longines' more heritage-inspired releases (as well as their vintage watches). But at the price that Longines has hovered around, gold watches can be tricky.

I'll say now that I don't personally find much use for a "dress GMT" and I think that $14,750 might be a lot to ask for a watch that houses a movement otherwise found in $3,150 watches. But many people forget Longines is one of the largest brands in the world by total sales. I suspect that means that they need to have a few options like this in the lineup for the people who know the brand and are looking for something more up-market. For everyone else, there is no shortage of options from the brand to choose from in this category.

Thebest watch